Kanchipuram – The holy city with a historical touch

Many may know Kanchipuram as the abode of Goddess Kamakshi and one of the seven holy cities that one must visit to attain salvation, however something that one may miss is the historical significance of this hamlet. Here’s a travelogue on the occasion of World Tourism Day…

I recently happened to visit Kanchipuram to see my husband’s grandparents. Seizing the opportunity we decided to explore the splendour of the old temples around, some of which date back to the Chola and Pallava dynasties. We visited three main temples Ekambareswarar Temple, Kamakshi Amman Temple and Kailasanathar temple. Varadharaja Perumal Temple is also one of the main temples, but we had to skip this one for lack of time.

Ekambareswarar Temple – The oldest temple in Kanchipuram, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is 1400 years old. The temple has impressions of Chola, Pallava and Vijayangar architecture as rulers from all three dynasties added their touch to the temple. Mythology has it that Goddess Kamakshi did her penance here and later married Lord Shiva.

The main gopuram of the temple is 59 m tall, making it one of the tallest in the country. In the central courtyard is a 3,500 year old mango tree, fruit from which can bless a childless couple with a child. Hence, the name Ekambareswarar as Eka means one and Amara means Mango tree. Across the span of the temple there are 1,008 Shivalingams and in the main sanctum sanctorum is one of the biggest Shivalingas in South India. Here, Lord Shiva is worshipped as Earth, one of the five elements. The priest here informed us that in this temple the Shivalinga is not bathed in milk and water, rather the primary way of worship is ‘Anna dana’ i.e. food donation.

Kamakshi Amman temple – The seat of Goddess Kamakshi, Kamakshi Amman temple is one of the three Shakti peethas. It was built in the 14th century during the Chola rule.  Located in the heart of the city this temple is closely associated with Adi Shankara and an image of him is worshiped in the temple. The gopuram of the sanctum of Goddess Kamakshi is made of gold.

Kailasanathar Temple – One of the oldest and beautiful temples around is the Kailasanathar temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Now a preserved monument, the temple gives us a glimpse of India’s rich cultural heritage. The temple is said to have been built in 7th century AD during the Pallava reign, and probably the only temple in Kanchipuram which was not cluttered with the influence of Cholas and Vijayanagar architecture. The temple is full of exquisitely carved sculptures and also has a garden area to rest the wearied feet. The temple in the evening light was very inviting and peaceful. A secret tunnel, which is believed to be the remnants of an escape tunnel built by the kings, is still visible.

Also, a circumambulatory passage, with a symbolic meaning is situated along the compound wall. In order to make the circumambulation, there is a narrow entry passage which devotees must crawl through. Seven steps must be climbed in order to reach the passage. Passing through the narrow passage is indicative of passage through life. After the circumambulation,  the exit is through a pit or another narrow passage, symbolic of death. It is believed that making the circumambulation round the various deities would usher the same blessings as visiting paradise.

Like any other temple town, Kanchipuram has a lot of heritage and old world charm associated with it (which although is in danger of being lost, with the rapid pace of development and commercial establishments mushrooming). While visitors frequent the many temples, one of the lesser frequented spots is Kanchi Kudil.

Kanchi Kudil – A 90 year old ancestral house now converted into a tourist site makes an interesting place to visit if you would like to get a glimpse of the South India households of the bygone era. The house is complete with a Master’s room which has a safe locker, an old style phone, writing desk etc., a ladies’ room and a kids’ room with a cradle and toys. The kitchen and bath area under the open skies is replete with a well, fire place for heating up water and cooking meals. It’s amazing how the house stays cool and provides you much needed respite from the hot sun outside.

Kanchipuram is also a heavenly place for shopaholics who would like to take the silk route. Home to many silk weavers the town is best known for its Kanjeevarams, the staple garb of Rekha. Prakash Silks, Nalli Silks and Pachaiyappa’s Silks are some of the prominent names for silk saris. The more adventurous (and with time in their hands), can of course find several smaller, less commercialised silk weavers too.

If looking for boarding and lodging check out GRT Regency. https://www.grthotels.com/grtregencykanchipuram.aspx

So, do check out Kanchipuram next time you are travelling on the Bangalore-Chennai route. 280 km from Bangalore enroute to Chennai via NH4, NH7 and NH46 it will take you about 5 hours to reach there. Bangalore –Hosur- Krishnagiri- Vellore – Kanchipuram.  If going from Chennai it is only 72 km.

Happy Journey!!!

– Nidhi Chawla Manoj